Cleaning and Care of Fur Garments and Case Analysis

With the improvement of living standards, people's pursuit of fashionable and high-end items has increased. Fur clothing, as a symbol of luxury and fashion, has been accepted by more and more people and gradually entered middle-income households, no longer exclusive to a few. As the ownership of fur clothing increases in society, problems related to cleaning and care of fur garments have become more prominent. Consumers themselves cannot handle these garments and must send them to dry cleaners. However, many dry cleaners lack professional technicians and can only clean them as ordinary clothes, which increases the risk of accidents that are difficult to repair once they occur. In fact, as long as one understands the characteristics of fur clothing and masters the washing methods, it is relatively easy to handle, but without this knowledge, accidents are likely to happen.
To properly handle fur clothing, it is necessary to understand relevant knowledge and characteristics of fur. This article focuses on some related knowledge of fur and common problems encountered when dealing with fur garments.
1. Common Types and Characteristics of Fur
Animal skins with hair that have undergone special chemical treatments to become long-lasting and can be made into various products are collectively called fur leather, commonly known as fur. There are many types of fur, both natural and farmed, with the most common types being:
High-end fur: mink (mink velvet), silver fox, blue fox, red fox, etc.;
Mid-range fur: raccoon dog, yellow wolf, marmot, grass fox, otter rabbit, etc.;
Low-end fur: sheepskin, dog skin, cat skin, domestic rabbit skin, etc.
The furs commonly seen in the market are generally from farmed animals, with mink and foxes being the most farmed, as well as mid- to low-end raccoon dog, otter rabbit, and domestic rabbit.
1. Mink
Mink is divided into male and female. Male mink are larger, with thicker and heavier pelts, coarser hair, higher gloss, and more coarse guard hairs. Female mink are smaller, with thinner pelts, dense and soft underfur, finer and fewer guard hairs. Generally, female mink are priced higher than males. Removing the guard hairs from mink results in mink velvet, which is even more expensive than regular mink. Currently, most mink on the market are farmed, mainly produced in Denmark, Finland, and Russia in Northern Europe, and the United States and Canada in America. These countries produce higher quality mink due to their cold climates suitable for mink fur growth, and because they place great emphasis on mink farming. The selection of natural environments and preparation of fresh feed are strictly researched, combined with computerized management, so each mink has detailed records (such as ID number, breed, color, parentage, etc.) and breeding research systems. Therefore, the quality of mink from these countries is improving. In China, large-scale mink farming exists in the Northeast and parts of Shandong, but due to various limitations, the quality still lags behind some foreign countries.
There are many mink varieties, including standard mink (brown mink) and colored mink (natural colors). Common colored mink include purple mink, white mink, sapphire, cream mink, coffee mink, silver-blue mink, etc. Mink products mainly include clothing, linings, collars, and accessories.
2. Blue Fox
The fur is fine and dense, mainly white with varying shades of gray. The guard hairs are long with tips showing different degrees of gray-black. The pelt is soft yet firm. Blue fox is mainly used for coats, scarves, collars, and clothing hat trims.
3. Raccoon Dog Fur
The fur is thick and dense with many guard hairs, colored uneven brown-gray, very natural. It has become very popular in recent years with prices rising rapidly, now close to or exceeding blue fox. Raccoon dog fur is mostly used for hat trims or patchwork garments.
4. Otter Rabbit Fur
No guard hairs, the entire body is covered with dense and thick underfur, very comfortable to the touch, comparable to mink velvet. Mostly white, but also black and light brown, and can be dyed various colors as needed. Otter rabbit fur can be made into clothing, linings, collars, etc.
5. Domestic Rabbit Fur
The fur is dense and thick with sufficient underfur and many guard hairs. Compared to otter rabbit fur, the underfur is relatively inferior, with guard hairs present. The pelt is not tear-resistant, has poor durability, and shedding is serious. Common colors include white and grass gray. After removing guard hairs and trimming short, it can be comparable to otter rabbit fur. Domestic rabbit fur can be made into clothing, collars, linings, etc.
2. Fur Tanning (Nitrate Tanning) Methods and Their Advantages and Disadvantages
There are two main types of fur tanning processes: traditional tanning and chemical tanning. Both methods are currently in use. Larger, formal manufacturers generally use chemical tanning, while smaller, remote manufacturers still use traditional tanning to save costs and due to limited conditions.
1. Traditional Tanning Method
Includes rice flour fermentation, flour bran fermentation, and cheese fermentation methods. The characteristics of skins tanned by traditional methods are white, delicate, soft pelts with bright and smooth fur, close to natural. However, the pelts tend to have odors, are not water-resistant, prone to de-tanning (nitrate loss), not heat-resistant, and easily moldy or insect-infested if not stored properly, making them unsuitable for long-term storage. They are not truly tanned leather. In the dry and cold northern regions, they can be preserved for some time, but once exposed to humid air and higher temperatures in the south, the pelts easily deteriorate and emit sour odors. Without timely measures, the pelts quickly lose value. Most smelly pelts seen are produced by traditional tanning.
2. Chemical Tanning Method
Includes formaldehyde tanning, aluminum salt tanning, chrome salt tanning, combined aluminum-chrome tanning, glutaraldehyde tanning, aldehyde tanning, and aluminum-oil combined tanning. Fur tanned by chemical methods has no odor on the leather, is washable, relatively heat resistant, can be stored for a long time without losing tanning, but the leather is relatively hard, the fur color and gloss are slightly damaged, residual chemicals on the leather can adversely affect human health, and the production process is not environmentally friendly.
3. Aluminum-Oil Tanning Method
This is the most commonly used tanning method for high-grade leather. For example, mink fur tanned by this method has a light yellow leather, soft body, smooth and shiny fur, and an oily feel to the touch, but it is relatively delicate and should be stored at a certain temperature to avoid high heat and humidity.
Since fur tanned by traditional methods has a sour and foul smell and is semi-raw leather that is not suitable for long-term storage, this tanning method is rarely used and only in a few underdeveloped areas. If traditional tanning is used, the fur must undergo re-nitration treatment before being made into fur products, making the fur chemically tanned. Therefore, fur products purchased through formal channels should all be chemically tanned and can be used with confidence.
Currently, the processing technology of fur leather production enterprises mainly uses chemical tanning methods. Depending on the preciousness of the fur, local environmental protection requirements, and the requirements of fur product processing enterprises for finished fur leather, the following tanning methods are generally used.
Low- and mid-grade furs (rabbit, dog, cat, raccoon dog, etc.) are generally tanned using formaldehyde as the main tanning agent. The production process is simple, chemical raw materials are readily available and inexpensive, and the production cycle is short. However, formaldehyde is carcinogenic and is banned or restricted in many places. Therefore, if environmental protection requirements are high, relatively more expensive glutaraldehyde or aldehyde can be used as the main tanning agent.
High-grade furs (such as mink) are generally tanned using aluminum salts combined with synthetic lanolin oil. The production process requires high standards (certain temperature and humidity), is more complex, has a longer production cycle, and the cost of chemical raw materials is higher, but the quality of the finished fur is higher and the production process is more environmentally friendly.
The leather shrinkage temperature of fur tanned by the above two methods is not high. If the fur needs to be dyed to increase the variety of colors, the leather cannot withstand the temperature required for dyeing. At this time, the leather must be made heat resistant, commonly by using chromium trioxide as a retanning agent. This tanning method has no grade distinction; the amount of chromium trioxide added depends on the required temperature. The more chromium trioxide added, the higher the heat resistance of the fur. Once chromium trioxide is added for retanning, the leather becomes relatively firm and its washing resistance is greatly improved.
3. The Impact of Tanning Methods on Cleaning Treatment
1. Traditional Tanning
Without high professional knowledge, this type of leather is very difficult to clean properly because the fiber structure of fur tanned by this method is not fully fixed and remains semi-raw. Once washed with water, it may cause the leather to harden and shrink slightly, or severely shrink, harden, and even crack. This is because traditional tanning leather contains a high concentration of acid, which swells the leather fibers when exposed to water, causing fiber breakage and loss of strength and usability. Therefore, leather tanned by traditional methods must never be washed with water. Is dry cleaning possible? It can be done, but there are many adverse effects because the salt and acid content in traditionally tanned leather is high. Dry cleaning will wash out these salts and acids, lowering the pH of the dry cleaning solvent, adversely affecting other garments and shortening the dry cleaning machine's lifespan. How should this type of fur be cleaned? It should first be "cured" by chemical tanning to fix the fibers, commonly called re-nitration, turning the leather from raw to mature.
2. Chemical Tanning Method
Fur tanned by this method has a firm leather, especially when tanned with aldehyde-metal salt combinations, making the leather more solid, fiber structure more stable, and heat resistance higher (compared to aldehyde tanning). However, cleaning requirements are not high and satisfactory results can be achieved with proper control.
3. Aluminum-Oil Combined Tanning Method
Fur tanned by this method is relatively high-grade. Washing this type of fur must be done carefully. While a single piece of fur can be washed casually, a product or coat should be handled cautiously. Fur products have a shrinkage issue; before making finished products, the fur is stretched to its maximum size, so some shrinkage after washing is inevitable. Different washing methods cause different shrinkage, so washing methods should be used reasonably. Another important issue is that if the leather's firmness is insufficient, it must not be washed. Relatively, dry cleaning is safer for fur tanned by this method.
4. Precautions for Cleaning Fur Garments
Fur products are high-grade garments. Before cleaning, pay attention to the following aspects:
1. Inspect the Leather
It is best to look through the lining to see the leather. If the leather is white or evenly slightly yellow, it is good leather; if the leather looks damp, crumbly, or darkened, it indicates crumbly leather, which may be damaged after washing.
2. Touch the Leather
If the fur panel feels even and soft to the touch, it is a good panel; conversely, if it is stiff or hard, it indicates deterioration of the fur panel and it is likely to be damaged by washing.
3. Check the fur
If the surface of the fur is smooth and even, it is good; if there are matted or clumped areas, it indicates insect damage. After washing, there may be shedding, and in severe cases, entire patches may lose fur. Sometimes, when insect damage just begins on a fur coat, there is no matting yet, but shedding may occur after washing.
4. Check the seams
Most fur products are made by stitching pieces together, so a garment has many seams, all sewn with very fine thread, which is not very durable. Especially for older garments, careful inspection is necessary, and seams may come apart during cleaning if the garment has been used for a long time.
5. Analysis of common problems
1. Issues to note when re-tanning fur
The hide will shrink because most fur requiring re-tanning is not fully tanned; the leather fibers are not firmly fixed. After re-tanning, the leather protein is fixed, causing some shrinkage of the hide, approximately 5–10%.
Foul-smelling fur is mostly deteriorated, or the fur may not have been stored properly. After soaking, the hide may shed hair or rot, which is not visible before soaking.
When re-tanning finished products like assembled heads, they may fall apart; previously assembled products may be damaged. If damaged, one must have the ability to repair them; otherwise, do not accept such work.
Re-tanning of valuable animal skins or skins of nationally protected animals must be done with legal possession certificates issued by authoritative departments (Forestry Bureau, Wildlife Protection Department, or Public Security Department). Unauthorized processing will bear legal responsibility.
After re-tanning, the leather is harder than before due to fiber fixation during the tanning process.
2. Fur products appear dull and lack luster after washing
Before leaving the tanning factory, most fur products undergo finishing, especially high-end furs, including fur glossing, combing, and ironing. During wear, abrasion, sunlight, exposure, rain, and dust cause the fur surface to darken and lose luster. Washing removes dust and stains but also washes away some beneficial components inside the fur, including the glossy elements, causing dullness and lack of shine. How to deal with dullness and lack of luster? Follow the principle of replenishing what is lacking: add gloss enhancer if luster is missing, and use special tools to comb the fur if it is messy. There is a caveat: improper combing may pull out hair roots and cause localized shedding, which is troublesome. Therefore, combing the fur must be done carefully.
3. White fur garments are not white enough or darken after cleaning
This is mainly because white fur is bleached at the tanning factory. After wearing, exposure to sunlight and light causes yellowing, which makes white fur appear less white. Over time, yellowing occurs. How to handle this? Generally, there are three methods: first, surface bleaching, which is safer but less effective; second, overall bleaching, which is more effective but less safe and harder to operate; third, overall dyeing, changing the original white to a preferred color, which is effective but less safe and complex, requiring good technique and understanding of fur.
4. Fur garments are good before cleaning but shed fur or break after cleaning
This mainly indicates insect damage starting from the root of the fur. Early insect damage is hard to see with the naked eye, but many hair roots are already broken. Any mechanical action or washing causes the fur with broken roots to fall off, similar to cashmere sweaters.
Fur breakage is mainly caused by weak leather panels. Causes include inherently weak leather fibers (e.g., rabbit fur), weak seams, crumbling leather panels, or aging. Whether shedding or panel breakage, experienced people can detect it by looking, touching, and blowing, but this requires long experience and accurate judgment to avoid problems. After accurate judgment, appropriate cleaning methods can be applied. In summary, cleaning fur garments should be conservative and not done blindly; each product requires a tailored cleaning plan.
6. Common knowledge for storing fur garments
Do not place fur garments near windows with strong sunlight. It is best to store them in a dim, cool, low-humidity, and well-ventilated place. Ensure there are no hot water pipes or steam pipes nearby, as fur prefers a dry environment.
Hang fur garments on hangers with high necks and wide shoulders, cover them with silk or pure cotton garment bags, and store them in a well-ventilated wardrobe. High-neck hangers prevent collars from folding over shoulders; wide shoulders maintain the garment's shape; silk and cotton ensure good ventilation for the fur.
Give fur "breathing" space. Fur requires relatively large storage space, and there should be more than 6 centimeters of space between it and other clothes to allow the fur to "breathe" freely. Never put fur in plastic bags or fold it tightly in a wardrobe, as poor air circulation will cause uneven moisture in the fur, leading to deformation and shedding of the fur.
Do not contaminate fur with other chemicals. If there are moths or other flying insects at home, do not use insecticides near fur clothing, as they are also harmful to fur.
In summer, it is best to store fur in a professional cold storage. If stored at home, it should be placed in an air-conditioned room to prevent damage from high temperature, humidity, and insects.
When wearing fur, keep it away from heat sources, especially heaters, because dry heat will draw out the effective oils in the fur, making it hard and prone to cracking.
Do not spray perfume on fur. The alcohol in perfume will harden and make the fur brittle, and its oil components may sometimes emit an unpleasant odor.
Do not take fur products outdoors for ventilation in spring and autumn, as there are many flying insects during this season. There is a type of larvae that loves to eat fur. Once attached to the fur, these larvae hide inside the fur and start feasting, continuously eating the fur and causing shedding. If not cleaned and the larvae killed in time, the fur garment will soon be badly damaged by the insects.
Use desiccants with caution, as they are chemical substances with moisture-absorbing functions. Localized moisture absorption on fur clothing can have adverse effects on the fur.