Washing of second and third generation suits

Chief Engineer of China Garment Group Corporation Wen Lisheng
 

Author Introduction
Director of the Expert Committee on Laundry and Dyeing Industry of China Commercial Federation, Deputy Director of the Expert Committee of China Garment Association, Deputy Director of the National Garment Engineering Center, Deputy Director of the National Garment Industry Productivity Promotion Center, Chief Engineer of China Garment Group, Professor at Donghua University (formerly China Textile University).
Also serves as an expert at China Textile Construction Planning Institute, technical expert at China Light Industry Quality Certification Center, consultant of the National Garment Washing Machinery Standardization Committee, principal of the Sino-French joint "Beijing Esmont Advanced Fashion Art School", and deputy editor-in-chief of the textile discipline of the Chinese Encyclopedia.
Professor Wen has long been engaged in teaching and research in mechanical design and garment engineering. He has led and undertaken national key projects on clothing culture and high technology during the "Sixth Five-Year Plan", "Seventh Five-Year Plan", "Eighth Five-Year Plan", "Ninth Five-Year Plan", and "Tenth Five-Year Plan", winning multiple National Science Progress Awards. In 1996, he was awarded the title of Advanced Individual in National Science and Technology Projects. Currently, he focuses on research, consulting, teaching, and training in digital technology for modern garment enterprises, garment engineering technology, and garment equipment. His expertise lies in garment machinery washing and garment fabric science.

From the perspective of garment structure, clothing can be divided into Western-style and non-Western-style garments. Western-style clothing originated in Europe in the 15th-16th centuries. Due to the perfection of garment pattern pieces and sewing technology at that time, the clothing shape became precise and fitting, structurally stable, and convenient to wear, gradually becoming popular worldwide. Therefore, it became the mainstream daily wear in modern society, called Western suit or simply suit.
The counterpart to Western-style clothing is called non-Western-style clothing, mainly originating from the clothing of various ethnic regions such as the Middle East, South America, Asia, and Africa. It can also be said to be clothing with distinct ethnic characteristics. Non-Western-style clothing has rich structural features but generally has problems such as simple and rough structure, poor fitting and stability, and complicated wearing.
The wearing and manufacturing of Western suits in China occurred around the late Qing Dynasty and the Xinhai Revolution, becoming popular as part of "learning Western culture." The wearers were mainly officials, revolutionaries who returned from studying abroad, and intellectuals in big cities. In port cities at that time, students, teachers, foreign firms, and government clerks wore Western suits the most. The earliest Western suits were almost all imported. In 1904, Shanghai's "Wang Xingchang Ji" produced China's first Western suit, which can be called "domestically made" but was actually a copy, featuring a small lapel, square hem with rounded corners, and narrow trousers. The popularity of this new Western suit indicated social change and became a symbol supporting the Republic of China. In October 1912, the Provisional Government of the Republic of China issued the first clothing regulation, the "Clothing System," which specified styles, colors, and materials for formal male and female attire. During the Republic of China period, main clothing included Western suits, Zhongshan suits, student uniforms, long gowns with mandarin jackets, padded jackets and skirts, and qipao.
In the 1950s, Western suits were still worn mainly by urban intellectuals and a few leaders. However, at that time, due to the undeveloped chemical fiber industry and lack of fusible interlinings, Western suits were generally made of wool fabric with cotton fabrics and cotton as auxiliary materials, making them uncomfortable to wear. Such primitive Western suits are generally called first-generation Western suits. Although first-generation Western suits were rejected by the late 1950s and 1960s, with the political rise of extreme "left" ideology, Western suits gradually disappeared from social life and became "feudal, capitalist, and revisionist" attire during the Cultural Revolution. It was not until the early 1980s, after China's reform and opening up, that Western suits gradually regained popularity under the leadership of central leaders. China began industrialized production and processing of Western suits. National leaders were the first to wear Western suits, which quickly spread like a fashion trend across China. Western suits became the most prominent political symbol of reform and opening up. Do you remember? The leaders of the Communist Party of China led by wearing new-style double-breasted Western suits, attracting great attention domestically and internationally. People politically sensed that Western suits seemed related to political reform, and wearing suits became a political signal of reform. Soon, this trend spread nationwide, sparking a "Western suit fever." Men all wore Western suits, even migrant workers wore them. However, at this time, due to foreign exchanges from reform and opening up, development of chemical fiber industry, modernization of Western suit manufacturing lines, development of suit auxiliary materials, and fashion trends, Western suits entered the second-generation era with fusible interlining technology. The second-generation Western suits emphasize the matching of fabric and auxiliary materials, reasonable application of fusible interlining, and overall effects of lightness, thinness, softness, firmness, and lift.
Besides brands, the second-generation Western suits pay the most attention to the fabric, lining, auxiliary materials, and their compatibility. Western suit fabrics include cotton, linen, silk, wool, and chemical fiber textiles, as shown in Figure 1. Among many fabrics, pure wool or wool blend textiles are considered more noble.

Figure 1 Various Western Suit Fabrics

Commonly used Western suit fabric names and fabric weaves are as follows:
Gabardine — twill worsted wool fabric;
Worsted flannel — twill worsted flannel;
Beige — plain-colored twill combed wool fabric;
Valitin — thin plain weave combed wool fabric;
Palace — mixed color combed plain weave wool fabric;
Whipcord — combed thick twill wool fabric;
Venetian — combed medium-thick satin weave wool fabric;
Doeskin — fine worsted satin weave wool fabric;
Fancy suiting — worsted or woolen plain or twill fancy fabric;
Navy cloth — coarse worsted twill wool fabric;
Melton — coarse worsted twill or plain velvet fabric;
Flannel — plain or twill velvet wool fabric;
Wool and polyester fabric (wool and polyester fabric) — commonly used wool and polyester (a plain or twill fabric with a ratio of 45:55);
Cashmere and cashmere blended fabrics, etc.
Suits are the most complex garments in terms of structure and craftsmanship among all types of clothing, and their processing technology level is also the highest. Therefore, the development level of a country's garment industry is mainly judged by the production level of suits. A suit consists of the collar, sleeves, and back piece. If these parts are dissected, various different auxiliary materials are used in each component, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2 Suit Composition

It can be seen that except for the suit lining, most of the auxiliary materials are concentrated in the front piece, which includes pocket fabric, fusible interlining, chest canvas, black carbon interlining, chest velvet, lapel interlining, etc. After selecting the suit fabric, it is crucial to reasonably choose the suit lining and auxiliary materials based on compatibility. This not only relates to the suit's shape but also to washing, maintenance, and ironing. Compatibility refers to the consistency of face fabric, auxiliary materials, and lining in terms of color, thermal shrinkage rate, washing shrinkage rate, mechanical properties, and other indicators.
Common auxiliary materials for suits include lining, interlining, padding, threads, and fasteners. The role of suit lining is to protect the garment fabric, cover sewing seams and auxiliary materials, and provide comfort and ease of wearing and removal. Common suit linings include cotton fabric, silk satin, nylon satin, polyester satin, feather yarn, acetate silk lining, and cupro fiber lining. Among them, cotton fabric and silk satin often have poor dimensional stability; nylon satin and polyester satin have good dimensional stability but are prone to static electricity. Therefore, high-end suits use acetate silk lining and cupro lining. Acetate silk lining is made by reacting cellulose with acetate to form cellulose acetate, which is spun and woven into fabric. Because its fibers are biodegradable, it is environmentally friendly. It also has low static, low shrinkage, good dimensional stability, and a smooth feel, making it commonly used for high-end suit linings. However, it has high thermal shrinkage and requires careful ironing after washing. Cupro lining, also called Binsuang lining, is made from cotton linter dissolved and spun in a copper ammonia solution. Due to its biodegradability, anti-static properties, and smooth wearing feel, it has been commonly used in high-end suits in recent years. However, since it easily produces water stains when wet, cupro lining is generally only dry-cleaned, which requires special attention.
Suit interlining, also called interfacing, is the most important auxiliary material in garments. It comes in many varieties and has a large market capacity, which is crucial to the quality of suits. The main purpose of using interlining is to maintain the suit's structural shape and dimensional stability, improve warmth, wrinkle resistance, and strength, and enhance processing performance. Common interlinings for suits include black carbon interlining, horsehair interlining, hemp interlining, fusible interlining (woven, knitted, non-woven), and resin interlining. The types of interlining used in suits are shown in Figure 3.

Figure 3 Types of Interlining Used in Suits

Black carbon interlining is made by using animal fibers (such as yak hair, goat hair, human hair, etc.) or wool blended yarn as the weft, and cotton or blended yarn as the warp to weave the base fabric, which is then processed with resin finishing. Since the production technology of black carbon interlining in China was introduced from India, and Indians tend to have darker skin, this interlining appears gray-black and was colloquially called "black carbon interlining," a name that has persisted to this day, although it has nothing to do with actual black carbon. Based on its raw material composition, it should be called hair interlining or more precisely wool blended resin interlining. As shown in Figure 3, black carbon interlining is mainly used in the front piece, shoulders, and sleeves of suits, giving the suit a crisp and full appearance. Because it is treated with resin, its dimensional changes after washing or dry cleaning are between 1-2%, so it has good compatibility with the fabric and adapts well to washing and dry cleaning.
Horsehair interlining is made by using horsehair as the weft and cotton or polyester-cotton spun yarn as the warp to weave the base fabric, which is then shaped or resin processed. It is mainly used as shoulder pad interlining in the front piece of suits. Currently, there is no national standard for horsehair interlining, but it generally adapts well to both washing and dry cleaning.
Fusible interlining replaces sewing with bonding (see the right side of the front piece in Figure 3), simplifying garment processing and improving sewing efficiency. At the same time, using fusible interlining shapes and maintains the suit's form, making it more beautiful, lightweight, and comfortable, greatly enhancing the suit's wear performance and value. Fusible interlining has many different common names, such as hot-melt interlining, heat-press interlining, adhesive interlining, and coated interlining. Fusible interlining is made by coating thermoplastic hot-melt adhesive (acting as a binder) on the base fabric (also called base cloth, made from woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric). Different hot-melt adhesives have different properties, especially regarding resistance to dry cleaning and washing: commonly used polyamide (PA) fusible interlining is suitable for washable garments; commonly used polyethylene (PE) fusible interlining has good washing resistance but poor dry cleaning resistance; commonly used polyester (PES) fusible interlining has good washing and dry cleaning resistance and is widely used in suits; commonly used ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) fusible interlining has poor washing and dry cleaning resistance and is only used for temporary bonding in garments. To improve EVA's wash resistance, it is modified into modified ethylene vinyl acetate (EVAL), which has good washing and dry cleaning resistance and can be used in suits. Fusible interlining is used for permanent bonding in the front piece of suits (see the right side of the front piece in Figure 3) and other parts, requiring no delamination or bubbling after washing or dry cleaning and no adhesive seepage after steam ironing. The evaluation standards for fusible interlining used in Chinese suits are shown in Table 1. Generally, a suit appearance rating of four or above after washing is considered qualified.

The padding in suits mainly serves to give the suit a full and curved appearance, and can correct certain deficiencies of the human body, ensuring an elegant look when worn. The main types of suit padding include chest pads, shoulder pads, and collar interlinings. High-end suits require high standards for chest pads, which are made from various types of black carbon interlining, horsehair interlining, needle-punched cotton, and strip interlining using specialized sewing equipment, generally requiring good wash resistance. The collar interlining of high-end suits is usually needle-punched from materials such as wool, viscose fiber, and nylon filament, offering excellent hand feel and elasticity, and easily matching the suit fabric. Shoulder pads are used in the triangular shoulder area of suits. Earlier sponge and spray-glue cotton shoulder pads are gradually being phased out due to their tendency to deform and discolor. Currently, non-woven fabric shoulder pads and cotton shoulder pads are mostly used; cotton shoulder pads are only suitable for non-washable garments as they are not suitable for washing, while non-woven fabric shoulder pads are suitable for both washing and dry cleaning and are commonly used in modern suits.
In summary, the second-generation suit mainly consists of fabric, lining, and accessories. Therefore, when washing suits, we should consider the washing performance of each component and finally take into account the overall washing and ironing finishing of the suit. Generally, the washing of suits should address the following points:
1. The washing method should be determined according to the appearance of the suit and the fiber type of the suit fabric.
Generally, branded suits come with fabric composition and washing labels, which should be used to determine the washing method. However, due to the chaotic clothing market and uneven quality, some washing labels are incorrect. In such cases, carefully check the fabric fiber composition and determine the washing method based on the composition. Generally, synthetic fibers, cotton, linen, and mid-to-low-end suits can be washed with water, while other types and mid-to-high-end suits generally require dry cleaning.
2. Pre-assess potential washing damage to the suit. For example, due to incompatibility among the fabric, lining, and accessories used in the suit, washing may cause bubbling, wrinkling, glue seepage, deformation, or size changes. Some suits have functional fabrics, such as antibacterial, antistatic, UV-resistant fabrics, linings, deodorizing, or radiation-resistant functional fabrics, which may lose all or part of their functions after washing.
3. Some suits are obviously damaged and cannot be washed. As shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4 Suit with obvious damage

Some suits have obvious damage at the lapel notch or cuffs, severe wear and fading at the collar, obvious and hard-to-restore mildew stains, or irreparable holes, and generally are not suitable for washing services.
4. The ironing temperature after washing the suit should not exceed the bonding temperature of the suit's fusible interlining. As mentioned earlier, there are four main types of hot-melt adhesives used in fusible interlinings, each with a bonding temperature at which no glue seepage occurs and the peel strength between the fabric and interlining is maximized. When ironing suits, it is essential to remember the bonding temperatures of different hot-melt adhesives. Generally, PE hot-melt adhesive bonds at 140-160°C; PA hot-melt adhesive bonds at 140-160°C; PES hot-melt adhesive bonds at 140-160°C; EVA and EVAL hot-melt adhesives bond at 80-110°C. If the suit fabric is made of cotton, linen, or wool, their ironing heat-setting temperatures range from 140-205°C, so improper settings can easily exceed the bonding temperature.
5. Washing suits is a complex and troublesome task. Therefore, in recent years, some new products have been developed for suit washing and maintenance. In 2004, China's famous suit manufacturer Ningbo Shanshan Group launched nano oil- and stain-resistant suits; in 2006, Jiangsu Hailan Group introduced machine-washable wool suits for ordinary households. These washable suits mainly add high-elastic polyester fibers to wool fabrics and use polyester materials in chest interlinings to maintain fabric and accessory shape without shrinkage.
6. As mentioned earlier, common shoulder pads for suits include sponge shoulder pads, spray-glue cotton shoulder pads, non-woven fabric shoulder pads, and cotton shoulder pads. Due to poor elasticity, easy deformation, discoloration, and poor durability, sponge and spray-glue cotton shoulder pads are only used in low-end suits. Non-woven fabric and cotton shoulder pads have good elasticity, stable styles, and are durable and washable, commonly used in high-end suits. However, after multiple washes, shoulder pads may lose grease, shrink, deform, and lose elasticity, so attention is needed after washing. If asymmetry of the left and right shoulder pads is found after washing, it indicates a problem.
When people entered the 21st century, a novel high-end suit appeared in the clothing market called the full-linen interlining suit. Its price is 5-10 times that of mid-to-high-end suits, and if fully imported, the price is at least over 20,000 yuan. The materials and processing methods of this full-linen interlining suit differ from the second-generation suit, so it is called the third-generation suit. The fabric of the third-generation suit uses the latest textile technology, with all-wool fabrics woven from wool yarns of 120s or higher; the accessories eliminate fusible interlining and replace it with full-linen interlining, making it lighter, thinner, softer, and crisper than the second-generation suit, providing more comfort when worn.
The third-generation full-linen interlining suit was first made in Italy and entered the Chinese clothing market around 2003. After several years of research and development, many domestic and international brands have launched full-linen interlining suits. Foreign brands include GUCCI, PRADA, ARMANI, GIVENCHY, HERMES, VERSACE, VALENTINO, etc., and domestic brands include Shanshan, Baoxiniu, Lanbao, and others.
 Nowadays, most linen interlinings are made from pure woven linen fibers and their blends (wool-linen blends) through scouring and resin finishing. Because linen fibers have good elasticity and toughness, their fabrics have properties similar to cotton fabrics, featuring high strength, good moisture absorption, easy heat conduction, resistance to acids and alkalis, anti-corrosion and antibacterial properties, a rugged style, coolness, breathability, and health benefits. Therefore, using linen interlining in high-end suits is incomparable to other interlinings. However, currently, China cannot produce pure linen interlining domestically; most clothing companies import high-end suits from Italy. Thus, developing the third generation of high-end suits in China to gradually replace the second generation will take some time. The main challenges lie in developing high-count fabrics, pure linen interlining, adhesive-free manual fusing processes, and industrial production of pure linen interlining suits.
       Because pure linen interlining suits eliminate the adhesive process, there is no washing trouble caused by adhesion between the interlining and the suit fabric. After washing, linen interlining suits will not have issues such as bubbling, wrinkling, or glue seepage. Additionally, the shaping temperature of pure linen interlining itself is between 180-200°C, which is much higher than the ironing and shaping temperature of suit fabrics after washing. Therefore, pure linen interlining suits can be safely ironed after washing.