Cleaning Technology and Operational Process Flow for Garments Combining Textile Fabrics and Leather Materials

Expert of the Expert Committee on Laundry and Dyeing Industry of China General Chamber of Commerce Qi Datong

Expert Qi Datong

Profile: Expert Qi Datong started working at Beijing Prand Laundry and Dyeing Company in 1963 until retirement. He is a senior laundry technician and has served as the company's deputy general manager and technical director. Skilled in stain removal, he is proficient in dry cleaning, water washing, fur care, and restoration of ancient calligraphy and paintings (murals). He successfully rescued precious cultural relics such as the "Qing Palace Secret Documents" and "Manchu Chronicles." He is currently an expert of the Expert Committee on Laundry and Dyeing Industry of China General Chamber of Commerce and director of the Beijing Laundry and Dyeing Industry Expert Committee, as well as the technical director of Foriskon Clean Company. In 2009, he was recognized by the Beijing Municipal Government as a "Master of Traditional Chinese Laundry Skills."

1. Types of Garments with Leather Decorations
In recent years, the trend of clothing rapidly developing towards modern fashion with personalization, fashion, diversity, and practicality is very obvious. Garments with various leather decorations have been welcomed by a wide range of consumers. Whether internationally renowned top brands, domestic mid-to-high-end brands, or low-end brands, clothing designers select various cotton, linen, silk, wool, chemical fiber, and new textile fiber fabrics combined with leather materials to create various styles of men's and women's casual wear, jackets, trench coats, nick series clothing, denim series, personalized fashion, special functional clothing, cold-proof clothing, down jackets, stage costumes, and so on. Meanwhile, washing accidents involving these types of garments have occurred frequently in recent years, mainly color matching issues, color bleeding, and color transfer.

As shown in the figure:

Figure 1 Sports Casual Series

Figure 2-1 Down Jacket Series

Figure 2-2 Down Jacket Series
 

Figure 3-1 Pure Cotton Casual Jacket

Figure 3-2 Pure Cotton Casual Jacket

Figure 4-1 Nick Clothing Series

Figure 4-2 Nick Clothing Series

Figure 5 Performance Costume
 

Figure 6 Metallic Thread Fabric

Figure 7-1 Zegna Silk Cashmere Fabric
 

Figure 7-2 Zegna Silk Cashmere Fabric
 

Figure 7-3 Zegna Silk Cashmere Fabric

2. Washing Characteristics of Leather Decorative Accessories on Garments
1. Characteristics of poor color fastness.
When washing such garments, it is very important to grasp the color fastness of leather accessories. Most leather accessories are made from smooth leather and suede leather as raw materials, processed finely. The leather dyeing process and dyes used differ greatly from textile fabrics. Therefore, the color fastness of leather dyeing is generally lower than that of textiles. Among them, most smooth leathers are coated leathers, with coatings containing various resin materials that fix and add gloss. Therefore, the color fastness of these leather accessories is relatively better. However, dyed leather generally has poor color fastness. This point should be given special attention.
2. Characteristics of leather accessory combinations.
Depending on the design style, color, and matching structure of various garments, the size of leather decorative accessories varies. Generally, they can be divided into large-area leather accessories and small-area leather accessories.
Large-area leather accessories are mostly on the front and back of collars, shoulders, elbows, flap pockets, denim series, and labels of garments.
Small-area leather accessories are mostly on the edges, piping, leather strips weaving, pocket openings, zipper teeth, zipper pulls, leather buckles, etc., of garments.
3. Characteristics of large color contrast between textile fabrics and leather.
There are many types of textile fabrics for such garments, such as cotton, wool, silk, linen, various chemical fibers, new textile fibers, and blends. Color fastness is the top priority when washing such garments. Additionally, the standards for leather dyeing color fastness in China differ greatly from those abroad. Foreign standards emphasize bright colors, natural and soft gloss, silk-like soft hand feel, and no harmful chemicals, with very high environmental requirements, but do not focus much on color fastness. For example, internationally renowned top brands like Italy's Zegna, Armani, and France's Jess Louis carefully select high-quality sheepskin, cowhide, or suede to make various accessories, but most have very poor color fastness. Regardless of the detergent or washing method used, fur accessories fade severely, which is especially important. In contrast, domestic leather accessories have better color fastness, but we should not be careless. Meanwhile, most of these garments use leather accessory colors that contrast greatly with the fabric colors. For example: white or light beige fabrics paired with black or dark coffee-colored leather accessories; gray or brown fabrics paired with dark brown or black leather accessories; bright red fabrics paired with black or coffee-colored leather accessories. Especially various light-colored and bright-colored cashmere and wool sweaters paired with black, coffee, or dark green leather accessories. Therefore, the color contrast between fabric and leather accessories on such garments is very large.

3. Cleaning Methods for Such Garments
1. Careful classification before cleaning.
The principle of classification is to strictly sort by fabric composition, color, degree of dirtiness, type of leather accessories, color fastness, and presence of special stains. At the same time, always refer to the washing labels (fabric composition, washing method).
2. Determine the correct washing method.
The washing principle is that whether it is dry cleaning, water washing, or hand washing, the method should vary according to the garment. Follow the principle of heavy pre-treatment and light machine washing. Specifically, carefully treat key areas and stains before washing, keep the machine washing time short, choose gentle washing (mild washing), prevent fur accessories from fading or dissolving in the detergent, and ensure cleaning quality.
From my many years of experience, petroleum dry cleaning (gentle dry cleaning) should be the first choice for washing such garments, and perchloroethylene dry cleaning should be used cautiously. Alternatively, hand washing separately (dry or water washing methods) is also a common method I use, requiring skilled operation, gentle and quick movements, and strict adherence to each process step, generally achieving perfect washing quality and effect.
3. Pre-washing protection measures for garment leather accessories.
For mid-range garments, if the leather accessories can be removed (without damaging the garment structure and can be restored), it is best to remove them for washing. However, for leather accessories that are difficult to remove (especially for internationally renowned brand garments), do not forcibly remove them to avoid affecting the garment's structure and style. Isolation protection measures can be used, such as wrapping with special aluminum foil or clean waste cloth, small towels, etc., hand-sewing to fix tightly, ensuring the wrapping is secure before washing, or placing them in a professional mesh bag for washing. Note that if hand water washing is used, such protection measures are not necessary.

4. Dry cleaning operation process flow
Whether petroleum dry cleaning or perchloroethylene dry cleaning, first test the color fastness of the leather by wiping with a towel dipped in perchloroethylene or petroleum. The key is to do a good pre-treatment process. The mixing ratio is: 3 parts soap oil to 7 parts perchloroethylene; or 3 parts petroleum additive to 7 parts petroleum solvent, diluted evenly. For key areas and stains, use a soft brown special brush dipped in the additive to gently pat and brush along the texture of the material, avoiding horizontal or reverse brushing, and apply even force. After all processing is completed, place it in the dry cleaning machine, control washing time to 3-5 minutes for gentle dry cleaning (depending on the garment). For leather accessories with good color fastness, liquid extraction and drying can be done, then drying to complete. For garments with leather accessories that fade severely, petroleum dry cleaning must be used. Washing time can be controlled to 1-2 minutes. After washing, enter low-speed spinning, then take out the garment, place a small towel on the leather accessories, wrap with a large towel, tie evenly and firmly, then perform high-speed spinning to extract liquid. After extraction, take out and dry. This prevents color transfer accidents. When shaping and ironing, place a cloth (silk or beautiful silk) over the leather accessories and iron at low temperature. If necessary, apply fatting care to the leather accessories.

5. Water washing operation process flow
For washing such garments, it is best to use hand water washing. For leather accessories with good color fastness, hand pre-treatment combined with gentle machine washing can be used.
Detergents should be neutral or mildly alkaline, washing temperature controlled around 20℃-25℃, and washing time should be as short as possible (depending on the garment).
First soak in cold water, then gently squeeze with both hands. Prepare detergent by dissolving 2-3 grams per liter of high-quality laundry powder or detergent liquid. Lift and wash 4-5 times in the washing solution, then brush manually on the washing board according to operating procedures, using a special washing board brush (three even strokes). After brushing, lift and wash 4-5 times again in the detergent, then rinse twice with warm water and once with cold water, gently squeeze with both hands, then place in 0.5-1% ice acetic acid water for acid neutralization for about 5 minutes. Note that if leather accessories fade during brushing, rinse with cold water while brushing. Also, do not use a spin dryer during rinsing. During acid neutralization, gently and repeatedly squeeze the leather accessories with both hands to fully fix and neutralize the color. After neutralization, gently squeeze out water, spread evenly (do not pile up) to control moisture.
The next step is very important, which is dehydration spinning. It is the key process to prevent color transfer and seepage. Prepare dry towels or discarded cotton sheets (highly absorbent). Lay the garment flat on the towel or bath towel, then place a small towel on the leather accessories, roll evenly and firmly without misalignment, then place flat in the spin dryer for 5-8 minutes, the faster the better.
The final step is drying. After dehydration, check for color transfer; if found, rework immediately for timely treatment. After meeting quality standards, wet shaping treatment can be done. Use a dryer with temperature controlled below 50℃, dry for 3-5 minutes, then shake flat, stretch the front placket, hem, sleeves, etc., pull and smooth the leather accessories by hand. For leather accessories with good color fastness, hang directly in a ventilated place to dry. Such garments should not be dried in a drying room or exposed to sunlight. For leather accessories with severe fading, starch powder can be used, evenly applied at the junction of leather and textile fabric to prevent color seepage and transfer. After drying, brush off the starch powder with a small brush or wipe with a damp towel. Then check for color transfer, seepage, or bleeding before ironing and shaping.
All the above processes must be carefully and properly operated. Any mistake in any step may affect the washing effect and quality. Finally, to emphasize the operation procedure: inspection and classification — cold water soaking — hand lifting washing — hand brushing (three even strokes) — return to detergent for lifting washing — rinse twice with warm water, once with cold water — 0.5-1% ice acetic acid water for acid neutralization — gently squeeze and spread to control moisture — dehydration spinning (key process, do it as required) — wet shaping treatment — hang to air dry (do it as required) — inspection and ironing shaping — packaging completed.
The above are personal views for reference only. Please point out any inaccuracies.