Clothing Mending Standards
Release Time:
2015-08-31 09:57
Source:
Label Washing Committee
1 Scope
This standard specifies the service requirements for garment darning in laundry and dyeing business services.
This standard applies to various laundry and darning services in the laundry and dyeing industry business activities.
2 Normative References
The following documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the cited version applies. For undated references, the latest version (including all amendments) applies.
SB/T 10783 Terminology of Laundry and Dyeing Industry
3 Terms and Definitions
The terms and definitions defined in SB/T 10783 and the following apply to this document. For ease of use, some terms and definitions from SB/T 10783 are repeated below.
3.1
Darning darning
The process of repairing damaged clothing according to its original color, original yarn, and original structure to make it close to or restore its original appearance.
[SB/T 10783-2012, Definition 8.1]
3.2
Woven fabrics woven fabrics
Fabrics woven on a loom by interlacing warp and weft yarns in a certain pattern, also called shuttle-woven fabrics.
3.3
Knitted fabrics knitted fabrics
A general term for fabrics formed by at least one set of yarn systems forming loops that interlock with each other.
3.4
Warp warp
Yarns arranged in the lengthwise direction of woven fabrics.
Note: Also called straight yarns (vertical yarns).
3.5
Weft tram silk
Yarns arranged in the widthwise direction of woven fabrics.
Note: Also called cross yarns.
3.6
Lines lines
The structural shapes formed by the regular interlacing of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics.
Note: Also called weave texture.
[SB/T 10783-2012, Definition 8.5]
3.7
Stitch stitch
The basic unit of knitted fabrics formed by a bent yarn interlocking at its bottom and top with other bent yarns.
3.8
Stubble stubble
Broken thread ends exposed above the fabric surface.
3.9
Hole shape hole shape
The shape of damage on clothing.
3.10
Hole edge lip
The edge of the fabric damage.
3.11
Stitch stitch
The interlacing of warp and weft yarns woven around the hole during darning of woven fabrics, overlapping with the original fabric yarns.
3.12
Pick yarns up and depress yarns
The process of arranging yarns up and down during the movement of the darning needle.
Note: When the needle passes under the yarn and lifts it, it is called "pick"; when the needle passes over the yarn and presses it down, it is called "depress".
[SB/T 10783-2012, Definition 8.18]
3.13 Wale wale
A row of loops interlocking along the lengthwise direction of weft or warp knitted fabrics.
3.14 Course course
A row of loops along the widthwise direction of weft or warp knitted fabrics.
3.15 Knitting stitch knitting stitch
The distance between corresponding points of two adjacent loops in the course direction.
3.16 Knitting level knitting level
The distance between corresponding points of two adjacent loops in the wale direction.
Note: Also called "course height."
3.17 Smooth and flat smooth and flat
Clothing after ironing has smooth lines, is crisp, and fits well.
[SB/T 10783-2012, Definition 7.15]
4 Main Darning Tools
4.1 Darning Needle
Slender steel needle. Commonly used sizes are No. 23-30; the larger the number, the finer the needle.
4.2 Crochet Hook
A type of needle with a hook at the end, used for knitting by rotating the hook in loops; available in different models and uses.
4.3 Darning Hoop
Made of bamboo, wood, metal, or other materials, with a groove on the hoop edge. Common diameters range from 5 cm to 14 cm and other sizes.
4.4 Raising Brush
Divided into copper wire brushes and ball brushes.
4.5 Large Darning Needle / Large Picking Needle
Slender, thick steel needle.
4.6 Tweezers
4.7 Scissors
4.8 Desk Lamp
4.9 Magnifying Glass
5 Service Requirements
5.1 The appearance of the darned area of the clothing should be referenced against the adjacent area of the hole.
5.2 The operator should carefully inspect the clothes received from consumers, mark pre-woven holes, inform consumers of possible issues, and note them in writing on the receipt.
5.3 For holes in clothes that are difficult to mend, the operator should agree with the consumer in person on the expected effect after mending and confirm it in writing.
6 Method for measuring the length of clothing mending
6.1 The edge length of the hole shape is measured at least as 1cm; if less than 1cm, it is measured as 1cm.
6.2 The general hole length is calculated as (length + width) × 2.
6.3 For triangular holes with the longest side less than 3cm, the hole area is calculated as a square hole. For the longest side longer than 3cm, the actual measured length is used, and the area is calculated according to 6.5 and 6.6.
6.4 For vertical slit-shaped holes, if the width is less than 1cm, it is measured as 1cm; if more than 1cm, the actual measurement is used.
6.5 For horizontal slit-shaped holes, if the width is less than 1cm, it is measured as 1cm; if more than 1cm, the actual measurement is used. The length is calculated as (length + width) × 2 × 150%.
6.6 Slant-shaped holes are measured as square holes. The length is calculated as (length + width) × 2 × 120%.
6.7 For holes with a perimeter exceeding 10cm, the length is calculated as (length + width) × 2 × 120%.
6.8 For holes with a perimeter exceeding 20cm, the length is calculated as (length + width) × 2 × 140%.
7 Quality Requirements
7.1 Woven Fabrics
7.1.1 The color and pattern of the mended part of the clothing should be close to the original fabric, naturally smooth, and overall close to the original appearance.
7.1.2 The hole shape should be overall smooth with few mending marks.
7.1.3 The stitches along the hole edge should be even with few connection marks.
7.1.4 The pattern should be similar to the original fabric, full, natural, and not skewed.
7.1.5 The warp and weft yarns should be intact without crossed or missing threads. The tension should be uniform without obvious tight or loose threads, and the surrounding connections should be naturally smooth.
7.1.6 The stitches should be smooth with few overlapping stitches and good firmness.
7.1.7 The color should be similar to the original fabric.
7.1.8 After finishing, the front side should have no fuzz, and the back side fuzz should not be easily pulled out. The mended area should be naturally smooth after ironing without glare.
7.2 Knitted Fabrics
7.2.1 The color and loop size of the mended area should be close to the original fabric.
7.2.2 The thickness around the hole should be uniform with few mending marks.
7.2.3 The loop size in the mended area should be uniform and full.
7.2.4 The vertical distance between loops and the horizontal height should be consistent, with horizontal and vertical alignment and no misalignment.
7.2.5 The mended area should have moderate tension and good firmness.
7.2.6 After finishing, the front side should have no loose yarn ends, and the back side yarn should not be easily pulled out.
7.2.7 After ironing, the mended area should be naturally smooth with a good appearance.
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